Since I can’t do anything else on the jacket until the binding and beads arrive (cross your fingers for some time next week!), I’ve been working on other parts of the costume instead.
Snow’s pants are your basic stretchy riding pants, but with a false front to make them look as though they are made of suede.The suede piece covers just the fronts of the pants from waist to where they go into the boots. The join is easily visible in the character shots. I assume the costume department didn’t expect anyone to notice that Snow’s pants weren’t all suede, but it’s easy to see in the show with all of the action she has in this costume.
I started out by just cutting two rectangles of suede a little wider and a little longer than I needed to cover half of the fronts. I put on the pants and pinned the suede to it, marking on the suede where the seams were underneath so that I knew where the finished edges of the piece should be. I did this with the pants on because I needed them to be stretched so that I knew everything would fit once the suede was on.
I used the first piece to cut out a symmetrical second piece and sewed them together at the center front.
I then hemmed all the edges with a double row of stitching, first cutting out the corners so that my poor machine didn’t have to sew over four layers of this stuff!
At that point, all that was left was to attach the false front to the pants, which meant making sure that I had the pants stretched enough. I started by sewing the center front seam to the center front seam of the pants. The pants don’t stretch as much vertically as they do horizontally, so that was pretty easy, and it gave me somewhere to work from.
I also checked to make sure the outer edge was hitting about where I wanted it.
I put the pants on and had Brandon mark where the bottoms of the false front should hit.
From there, I sewed them on down the inseam, careful to stretch the pants just a touch so that the ends landed right on Brandon’s line. Then I put the pants on again, and had Brandon pull the outer edge as far as it would go and mark where that should fall so that the suede would be as tight as possible when I had it all sewed down.
Here’s the finished product. I didn’t manage to get it quite as tight as I hoped, but I think the backs of the pants end up stretching a bit more once the suede is on to make up for the fact that the front doesn’t stretch as much anymore. Oh well, at least most of the loose bits will be covered by other parts of the costume!
After the pants I moved on to the skirt drapes. They are made of pincord fabric, and lined with the leftover suede from the pants to keep them stiff.
After making a basic waistband, I draped them on my dressform, careful to keep a large seam allowance around the edges so that I could wrap them around the lining and finish. They are very simple shapes, just wonky rectangles with one little pleat in the front and one in the back for shaping and drape.
The fabric is the same size as the lining at the top, but gets wider as it goes down so that it has a bit of drape separate from the stiff lining. Since that meant I couldn’t pin them together laying completely flat, I attached the two by pinning the seam allowances away then lining up the lining piece with each edge and wrapping the fabric back around it before pinning in place.
Once the sides were pinned, I fiddled around a lot with the placement of the pleats until they fell as straight as I could get them.
I couldn’t sew the fabric and lining together until I was happy with that, or I’d just have to rip it out again.
Since, after all of my futzing with the pleats, the lining edges and fabric edges don’t line up exactly at the very bottom, I both top stitched the edges and hemmed. This ensures that the edges stay nice and sharp, and the fabric doesn’t balloon away from the lining oto much.
Since the waistband won’t be seen at all in the finished costume, I was able to just top stitch it shut instead of doing a nice slip stitch, which saved a bit of time.
Here’s the progress so far (sans pants since the dressform doesn’t do that):
Maybe steaming those darn drapes will get the wrinkles out. It seems like every time I set them down and pick them up again, they’re a mess!
There won’t be a blog next week, since I’ll be too busy getting ready for our Halloween party to get much done, plus it’ll give the final materials a chance to get here. There’s not much I can do until the seam binding and beads arrive! Things should really get fun once that happens!
See you in November,